Mountaineering - A Popular Sport

By Mohamad Yousuf

Mountaineering is becoming increasingly popular amongst the youth of our country. This promising sport has also attracted the youngsters of our valley. It makes them resourceful and teaches to face difficulties. It brings about the complete mental, emotional and spiritual integration. It is a unique sport that teaches self-discipline and strengthens one’s faith and determination. It is a way of acting, thanking and living together with a fraternity of people who seek high adventure in the high places. In fact, a trip to mountains has a soothing effect on the soul.

Men have always desired to climb to the top of high mountains. There were so many Prophets and saints, who used to climb the mountains. The spirit of adventure and desire to know about the things and places has led them to do so. Mountaineering and trekking in the Himalayas is total experience which provides to one an opportunity of access to the people unknown and an environment otherwise denied to people. Besides, the trekking provides the invaluable media for communication and mutual understanding. Climbers are a sort of “Clan” with its own traditions but open for all.

Like all other sports Mountaineering requires a certain technique for good climbing. However, the technique is least complicated and all you need is an indomitable spirit of adventure and, of course, the basic commonsense. As a technique climbing has become more specialized with the use of artificial aids to accomplish climbs that would otherwise be impossible.

THE ART OF MOUNTAIN WALKING:

Before setting to climb, gain experience of walking over small hills. Try to find a companion who is also keen to start climbing. One should be competent walker able to cover a good distance without undue fatigue, walk at a steady rhythmic pace which one can keep up all day. Avoid following streams. Lift and place the foot carefully to avoid slipping or dislodging stones. Never make jerky movements.

1. Ascending :- Shorten your stride and zigzag up a steep slope

2. Descending:- Bend the knees very slightly and dig in your heels at each step

The party should keep together; individual should not race or lag. Single file is best on narrow paths and ice fields. A party going up boulder or scree slopes should keep close together, so that any stone dislodged by the member do not have the chance to gain speed. If a stone is dislodged above steep slopes, shout a warning “stone-stone” to anyone who might be below, even though one cannot see anybody.

CLIMBING CALL AND KNOTS:

One should learn the International calls at home; such calls can save a good deal of time and confusion particularly in windy conditions. When shout calls cannot be hear, the party should use a system of gentle tugs on the rope, e.g. three tugs by the leader to indicate that he is ready for the second man to me.

Practice the essential rope knots at home before you start. There are so many kinds of knots which are used for ascending, descending, anchoring, rescue and crossing etc. Some of them are as; Overhand knot, Guideman knot, Middleman knot, Bowline knots, Figure of eight, Tarbuck, Fisherman’s knot Fisherman’s bend, Reef knot Prusick, Clave hitch, Sheet bend and Carrick bend etc. 

TECHNIQUE:

Mountaineering involves two type s of climbs viz. Rock-Climbing and Ice-Crafting.

1) Rock-Climbing:- There are two types of rock-climbing, one direct and the other indirect (artificial).

In direct climb one does not need any artificial aid. Two to three persons tie themselves with the rope, which is the life line of the climber. The leader of the party finds the natural holds of the rock and with its help they climb a rock. Only one person at a time climbs, the rest of the party waits safely anchored and give full attention to moving man. When one person is climbing the other members belay him. Climbing rock “on the foot” as much as possible, using your hands to keep body in balance. Keep body away from the rock. Avoid stretching arms full length for high holds, otherwise it waists energy.

SOME ROCK HOLDS:

Undercut hold, Side cut hold, In cut hold, over cut hold, Jam hold, Foot hold, Pressure hold and Pinch hold etc.

If the rock i s over 650 and the natural holds are not available, the climber requires the help of artificial aid (sophisticated climbing gear) like Pittons (steel nails), Hammer, Helmet, Drill, Karabiner (snap ring), Chest harness (chest belt) , slings (small ropes) and Etrior (Rope ladder) etc, The leader of the party fixes the pitons into tiny cracks in the rock, then attaches karabiner with it and finally the rope is clipped through the Karabiner, which provides support for the foot and body. It also helps in running belay. Running belays are valuable extra safeguards for the leader while climbing a pitch. The fall of a climber can be reduced with its help.

2) Ice-Crafting:

One should never walk alone or un-roped on the ice because there can be huge and deep crevasses, hidden under fresh snow. While walking and climbing on ice one requires the Crampons (boot spikes), Ice axe and Gaiters (boot covers) etc. Always use dark sun goggles in snow and ice fields. Walk in a single file. In case any member falls in crevasse or snow abyss the other members can rescue him by self arresting on ice with the help of ice-axe.

For artificial ice-climbing one needs screw typed Ice Pitons, Ice hammer, Jumar (ascender) etc. in addition to necessary equipment, mentioned above. The Aluminum Ladders are used for sheer ice falls and crevasse crossing. The step-cutting and rope fixing on ice is useful for the climb to loaded porters. Always select good camp sites. Don’t make noise in exposed areas, avalanches roar down the gullies bringing tons of ice and snow enveloping the unwary.

RAPPELLING:

It is stance which facilitates quick and controlled descent from ice walls and rocks on a rope. There are various types of rappelling such as, Stomach rappelling, Side Rappelling, Shoulder rappelling and Hip rappelling (Karabiner rappelling). Abseiling is one of the major causes of accidents and it is essential to ensure that the anchor is safe and advisable to use a safety rope all the time.

CARE OF EQUIPMENT:

Never store rope, tent and clothes wet, or in a damp unventilated place, or near harmful chemicals like cart batteries etc. Never dry the rope near a fire, nor store in a hot place, nor leave it exposed to full sunlight for long periods. Dry a rope by spreading it in loose loops in an air place. Check the rope regularly for wear and damage. Gently open the strands and examine the rope for wear due to grit. If there is a wear on the inside it is warning of age and weakness. Shake or wring out wet clothes before drying. A current of air, even if cool, dries better than heat alone. Boots may be oiled to soften and water proof them. Wet does not harm boot, if they are dried slowly away from heat. Stuffing boots with hay or papers helps to dry them. Mountaineers always wear colored clothes because it relieves monotony, helps in spotting a lost climber and provides good subject for color photography, so take care of the color of clothes as well.

HIGH ALTITUDE SICKNESS:

Of all the hazards, the most dreaded is Frost bite which means freezing limbs. It is more intimately connected with the loss of oxygen. A lack of oxygen will therefore, reduce the heat of the body and expose the extremities to the danger of Frost bite. Other hazards of lesser sickness are chilblains, trench foot, sun burn, snow blindness and dehydration. These are caused more because of carelessness. One must always take as much liquids as he can consume in the mountains. Pulmonary Oedema takes place due to poor a acclimatization or exposure of body to servers cold which results in mild cough, pain in throat, vomiting, body ache and as the case deteriorates due to lack of timely aid, the patient fights for oxygen.

Every climber must undergo a period of gradual acclimatization before organs can operate properly at the heights. The most favorable zone for acclimatization is normally about 19,000 to 20,000 feet. Beyond this altitude at about 23,000 feet a critical zone is reached where successful acclimatization can no longer be expected. From 25,500 feet onwards the climbers enter the so-called “death Zone”. The only treatment for the ensuing symptoms is to restore normal supply of oxygen. The lack of oxygen causes lethargy, drowsiness, lack of power, exertion and mental deterioration. Sometimes it can also produce the state of overexcitement.

After the successful ascent to Mount Everest without oxygen in 1979 by an Austrian climber, Reinhold Messner, it has been agreed that altitude up to 29,028 feet can be tolerated without oxygen, provided one will undergo a gradual acclimatization. The body has at its disposal certain faculties which enable it to adapt itself.

FIRST-AID:

Every climber should learn the elements of first-aid. First-aid in mountain rescue work should aim (a) to reduce shock (b) to immobilize fractures (c) to stop bleeding and cover open wounds (d) to deep patient warm and free from pain.

Even when there is no accident exposure is a serious and often unrecognized danger in bad weather. The essential feature of exposure is severe chilling of the body surface, with a reduction in heat content of the body. This becomes very serious when the deep body temperature begins to fall below its normal 98.40 F (370 C). It leads to mental deterioration, loss of muscular co-ordination and eventually unconsciousness, heart and respiratory failure and finally death.

ELEMENT OF SAFETY:

There is a proverb “don’t show chest to mountains”. Sometime they can be treacherous. They never forgive; therefore, a judicious retreat is more admirable than a victory with a toll of death which spells gloom. A successful leader is one who knows when to go ahead and when to retreat.

CONCLUSION:

I dare say that the “mountain sports” have completely been ignored in the valley by various sports organizations. Mountaineering being the un-spectators sport, attention has always been paid towards the whistle games, like football and hockey etc. the matches of which can be witnessed by a good crowd of people and V.I.Ps. A great credit goes to J&K Mountaineering and Hiking Club, Srinagar for inculcating the spirit of adventure among the youth of the state since 1934. The Club sponsors at least a dozen of its members for undergoing training in mountaineering at various Institutes and organizes expeditions every year without any financial assistance from the J&K State Sports Council.

For promoting the “Mountain Sports” in the world, especially among the handicapped people credit goes to Great Britain for sponsoring the Mount Kolahoi expeidition-1981 in order to celebrate the International Year of Disabled people. Three members of J&K Mountaineering and Hiking Club (including this writer) also participated in this great and historic expedition. One more British handicapped mountaineer, Mr. Norman Croucher, 40 years, tried to scale Mount Nun, 23,410 ft. recently but due to certain reasons he reached only up to the height of 22,000 ft. Mr. Croucher is handicapped by both of his legs and walks on artificial legs. Needless to mention that ‘Australian Himalayan Expeditions’ has been keenly promoting adventurous sports in the world.

Published in monthly magazine "Kashmir Today" issued by Information Department, J&K Govt. in August 1982.