Saturday, September 19, 2009

Thajewas - The Glacier of Tragedy

Thajewas is receding much faster than any other glacier in the valley. Easy access to the glacier is responsible for its recession. It is now time to protect it, as otherwise the Golden Meadow will lose its White Gold forever, observes Mohammad Yousuf
  

Lot is written and discussed about Kolahoi and other glaciers of J&K State but little attention is paid by highly rewarded and awarded environmentalists and Glaciologists towards the protection of fast receding Thajiwas Glaciers in Kashmir Himalayas. Thajiwas is, in fact, a valley within the Sindh valley. It runs south-east to north-west to join the Sindh River at Shitkari below Sonamarg. It is surrounded by many lofty rock walls and challenging peaks like Mosquito,4612 mtr, Arrow/Blade, 4830 Mtr, Valehead, 4750 mtr, Umbrella, 4789 mtr, Cefn Carnedo, 4800 mtr, Innominate, 4900 mtr, and Kazim ridge, 4970 mtr. on its south and easy grassy Zabnar (4040 mtr) on its north. Two very difficult types of sandstone and soft lime rocks form its boundaries. The eastern side of the valley is blocked by the Hapatnar Bal (Bear Valley Col). Melting glaciers form a stream at the base which later joins the River Sindh at Shitkari Bridge near Hung.

Thajiwas is also known as ‘The Valley of Glaciers’. In recent past it was abode of six fairly well defined glaciers lying in between different pinnacle shaped peaks, crags and cliffs. Most of the glaciers, running from mountain tops through gullies, were meeting each other at the base of the valley and was therefore known by a single name of Thajiwas glacier but the position of these glaciers is today entirely different. The moraines running from these glaciers to the foothills indicate that a large portion of these glaciers is receded for last some decades. These Glaciers are now shrunk to a great extend. Just before independence some sporting activities like climbing and ice crafting were actively conducted here by the British officers. These glaciers offered best possibilities of undertaking high adventures here. Surprisingly most of these glaciers are now hanging on the cliffs, waiting for their sudden death. Glacier 1 overlooks the ‘Meadow of Gold’ (Sonamarg) and lies directly amidst of two peaks, ‘Greater Thajiwas’ 4727 mtr. and Lesser Thajiwas, 4546 mtr. It is on the pattern of other glaciers, steep of snout. Glacier 2 lies between Greater Thajiwas and Wallow Crag walled behind by Arrow and Cefn Carnedo peaks. After Glacier 2 there was a snow bed, called Amphitheatre Gully, which is totally vanished now. One can find seasonal snow on this Gully till April/May but due to high rate of ablation it melts down fast. The snow clad Umbrella peak lies on the upper reaches of this gully behind Wallow Crag. Glacier 3 is situated between Umbrella and Valehead peaks. Kazim ridge forms the back wall. This is the largest of the six glaciers and the most active. It is roughly triangular in form. Glacier 4 and 5 are close to each other and lies at the foothills of Valehead and Mosquito peaks. The long and serrated north ridge of Valehead peak divides Glacier 3 and 4. Its lowest buttress, named Sunday Crag, dominates Glacier 4. Glacier 6 lies at the head of the valley over Bear Valley Col. It bends down from the very heart of Valehead Peak, beyond Mosquito Peak, in a smooth curve.

About four decades back it was possible to ski the whole Thajiwas Nar till late July. Glacier 6 was not crevassed and provided good ski runs in May and June. Glacier 3 would make a fine ski mountaineering expedition to the peaks “Valehead” and “Umbrella”. Even till 1988 these glaciers offered challenge for ski-touring. An Indo-Swiss expedition, with this writer as one of the members, skied down the entire Thajiwas Nar starting from upper reaches of Hapatnar Col to Sonamarg in May-June 1988. At some places it offered Extreme Skiing with nearly 8 kilometers of ski run in one go. Snow condition was excellent and fantastic. Another expedition, organized by the J&K Ski & Mountaineering Association undertook Ski-Paragliding flights from top of Glacier 1 to the base in May 1989. Not only global warming but the increasing human activity in higher areas is equally responsible for disappearance of glaciers. Due to high rate of ablation and heat produced by increasing number of tourists, Gujjars/Bakarwals (Nomads), herdsmen, restaurants, School excursions and campers the glacier seems visibly retracting. The Glacier 5 has pushed out a tongue of ice into the main valley. There is need for taking tangible steps for addressing the receding Thajiwas Glacier.

The Jammu and Kashmir Government is undoubtedly duty bound to promote tourism in the state. It is making its all out efforts to promote tourism in a big way but the growing tourism harms our eco system as well. In its endeavor the Tourism Department is increasingly organizing different adventure programs, carnivals, fame tours, and festivals etc at high altitudes one or the other day. Conducting of Rafting Championships on Sindh and Lidder streams has become its regular feature. During such adventure activities a large crowd is gathered at higher places. Besides, a large number of domestic tourists are now regularly visiting these places. Hundreds of tourists and local excursions are frequently visiting the easy accessible Thajiwas glacier every day. The glacier is visited by nearly 50,000 to 60,000 tourists just in 120 days of tourist season every year. It is not possible for a common/pleasure tourist to visit Kolahoi or any other high altitude glacier in a day. Surprisingly Thajiwas glacier is just 2.5 kilometers away from black topped road head. To seek pleasure by organizing snow fighting or zooming down the glacier on a Sledge the tourists from Indian planes always prefer to go to Thajiwas glacier because it is nearest and has easy approach. The increasing tourist inflow to Thajiwas is its deteriorating factor. Not only day tourists but a good number of Gujjars/ Bakarwals (nomads) and Chopans (herdsmen) are residing here during summer months. Many others have been permitted to set up Tea Stalls and Campsites in the narrow Thajiwas valley, unaware of the fact that due to increasing human interference the heat is generated in a larger quantity and thus proving disastrous to the glaciers. The Campfires, stoves, Cholas and burning of wood to make charcoal accelerates the heat here. Since Thajiwas is bounded by wall like high mountains on its three sides it leaves less space for heat to escape. The Sonamarg Development Authority must immediately shift these campsites to other places like Sarbal, Nilgrath and main Sonamarg but away from water bodies as well. There is need of setting up a monitoring station by The Energy Resource Institute (TERI) here as otherwise we will lose this nature’s renewable storehouse of freshwater. On the other hand these hanging glaciers could also be dangerous for tourists who often try to reach out to these glaciers. Two years back five tourists were buried alive in a hanging glacier when it suddenly collapsed. We will have to minimize the tourist inflow to Thajiwas so that melting rate could be minimized and the glaciers are protected. The Government will have to prepare extensive project to protect these glaciers.

Published in Daily Rising Kashmir on 19th September 2009

Friday, September 4, 2009

Exploring Gurez

Gurez is more suitable for heritage tourism than adventure, writes Mohammad Yousuf

This refers to the article titled “The Inside-out of Empyrean Adventure” authored by M/S Zahid Samoon and Ishtiyaq Samoon, (GK Aug 28). Mr. Zahid must be well aware of the fact the Directorate of Physical Education, University of Kashmir launched its first-ever reconnaissance expedition to Gurez in August 2005 to explore possibility of introducing different adventure activities here. Pertinently the expedition, comprising 60 students from different colleges and P.G Departments, was flagged of by the then Tourism Minister, Mr. G.H. Mir and M.L.A Gurez, Mr. Nazir Ahmad Gurezi. Soon after completion of the expedition Mr. Zahid, being a native of the area, expressed his gratitude for the University in a writ up published in Greater Kashmir some time ago. It is surprising that Samoon brothers have now forgotten the initial efforts of the University to put Gurez on national tourism map. It is sad that they have made no mention of the University in their recent article.

The possibility of introducing different tourism related activities in Gurais was first brought to the notice of public by the University expedition, led by this writer, through the medium of esteemed Greater Kashmir. Tourism Department came in picture much later. For kind information of Mr. Zahid merely holding Festivals at local level will not promote Gurais as a major tourist destination. There is need of exploring possibilities of introducing different adventure activities such as ski-mountaineering, paragliding, parasailing and alpine skiing more seriously. Due to its restricted boundaries it is not possible to organize long trekking here. A trek from Dawar to Budaab (Tilel) through laid muddy and dusty road could not be attractive for tourists than a trek from Dawar to deep Neelam valley. Serious River Rafting is also not possible on flat waters of River Kishenganga. For Rafting the water should be wild with rapids of 3 to 5 grade. Water trekking would be suitable on Kishenganga. Gurais, of course, offers great challenge for ski-touring from Dawar to Bandipore and Tilel to Kangan or Sonamarg via Tsorlat and Gangabal but should the Tourism Department send its team of experts for exploring the terrain and preparing itineraries? A circular mountain biking trip from Srinagar to Srinagar via Bandipore, Gurais, Tilel, Drass and Sonamarg could be fascinating. It has tremendous potential in foreign market and needs massive marketing by tourism players. There is also possibility of introducing Paragliding, Parasailing, and alpine skiing here provided some skilifts are installed here but again this will be possible only when there is connectivity, as rightly pointed out by Mr. Zahid in his article. Heli-Skiing is possible on the southern region of the valley but it will not help locals in any way as the operation will be conducted from Srinagar itself. Major mountains and peaks have no access from Dawar as these are lying in other part of the valley. Gurais is undoubtedly a picturesque countryside. It has much potential for heritage tourism than adventure tourism keeping in view the interference of army in the area. Due to strategic point most of the areas of tourist interest are fenced and restricted for trekkers and climbers here. Not only setting up a unit of Cultural Academy here but there is also need of establishing an Outward Bound School here which could train local manpower for tourist industry. To protect the heritage log houses at Purana Telil, Budogam, Budaab, Chorwan and other areas from devastating fires is most important task of the Government. Fire fighters should be kept readily available in every village.

The article was published in Greater Kashmir on September 4th, 2009